Wednesday, 26 December 2012

Sprawl

I might have known intellectually this wasn't quite right, but I always thought, or felt, or something subconscious, that American cities sprawled like Australian cities sprawl.

They don't.

I thought I had some understanding of the deep need of many Americans to own and use a car - after all, I thought, many Australians feel the same need.

No, they don't. It's different.

After only a few days in Phoenix, I'm beginning to understand how absolutely impossible it would be to live here without a car. To some extent, this understanding started to form in Ann Arbor, but there, I think, it is merely difficult to get by without a car. Much like Canberra, where I managed without one for six months: it was possible, it was even ok, but I wouldn't want to do it for much longer.

But in Phoenix, it would not even be possible. Not really.

Every time we've needed to go somewhere, we've jumped in the car. To some of those places, I might have walked had I been by myself - but we've often been on our way somewhere else anyway, so the car it is.

Anyway, the sidewalks tend to run out.

And more: no two places we've wanted to go have been in the same general location. There are often only a few shops, cafes, etc in the one small area, and as soon as you are getting in the car anyway, it seems you may as well drive for 20 minutes as for five to go to the place you really want to visit.

The city is, according to my friend and host, A., the fifth largest in the country. Unlike the other large cities in the USA that I've visited (and that's really only two or three, depending what you count as a large city), it feels to me like a collection of very spread out suburbs. On any given trip, I can't tell if we're moving closer to the centre, further away, or just travelling around.

It's like Canberra on steroids in this regard, although without the sheep. Maybe I just haven't been far enough outside the city yet.

On one trip, A. told me we were on the outskirts of the downtown area. It did not feel any less suburban to me.

On another trip, we were heading to the outskirts of the metropolitan area - apparently a little more rural - and while there were a couple of lots with some hay bales, it still just felt suburban to me.

What's more, I am having a very difficult time distinguishing bits of the city from other bits. This is not assisted by the fact that, I'm told, all of the malls are owned by the same company. They certainly look to be. (It's not only the malls.)

As a result, I am experiencing the city in a very different way from the way I normally experience cities. It is, to be honest, a bit disconcerting.

I suppose that's not a bad reason to be here.

Tuesday, 25 December 2012

Happy Christmas!

I'm in Phoenix, celebrating Christmas with a CS friend and her family.

To those of you who are celebrating: Happy Christmas!

Friday, 21 December 2012

Teahaus

N had pointed me towards Teahaus, and I made it there this afternoon (a perfect day to enjoy a pot of tea).

I ordered some chai, installed myself in a table in the corner and pulled out my knitting and something to read.

The woman at the table beside me asked what I was knitting. I showed her the headband I was copying, but said I was considering making it as a Moebius strip instead of being plaited.

The nice thing about being in a tea shop in Ann Arbor is that assuming the person you are talking to will know what a Moebius strip is a pretty good guess.

Not the end of the world

It's N's birthday today, as well as so everyone has been saying this year, the end of the world as per the Mayan calendar.

The birthday happened. The end of the world does not seem to have happened. We still have another 12 or so hours, but I think it would have taken place at 2 am, if it was going to happen at all.

Anyway, check out Ann Arbor's birthday present to my sister!

Wednesday, 19 December 2012

Zingerman's, Ann Arbor

Here I am in Ann Arbor, MI, visiting my sister, N.

I feel like I'm on holidays. The fact that Christmas and all its toppings make a lot more sense when it's cold magnifies my feeling of being away.

One of the first places N told me about was Zingerman's, a deli that is, apparently, one of the most famous places in Ann Arbor, and for good reason. It's also very close to N's house. So here I am for brunch.

There is so much chocolate here, it's not funny, plus the pastries look amazing. I will have to come back when I'm in the mood for something sweet.

And I am pretty sure you would not hear here the exchange I witnessed in a Starbucks at DFW yesterday:

Woman who had just ordered a salted caramel mocha frappucino, suspiciously, after taking a sip: There's no coffee in here, is there? I don't drink coffee.

Barista: No, no coffee.

Woman walks off with frappucino.

Barista, to me: It's probably the mocha she can taste.

Well, it was Starbucks, so I suppose it is entirely possible there was no coffee in there...

Monday, 17 December 2012

Time to revive the blog...

I can't believe it has been nearly 4 years since I wrote a post here.

Actually, I can.

Turns out, life as a barrister leaves one with even less time and inclination for writing blog posts about travelling than does life as a research masters student ...

I am about to head off on another trip, though, so I am reviving the blog. Destinations: USA (Ann Arbor, Phoenix and San Francisco) and Costa Rica.

I may or may not be posting while I travel - although if I do, there won't be many photos as I won't have the technology with me to crop and re-size etc etc. But if I can post from my phone, I might put up a few narrative posts as I go, and then try to get some photo posts up when I return.

Let's see what happens...