I just noticed I never did post anything about my trip to Myanmar.
Well, I'd better fix that!
While in Myanmar, I spent two days in the ruby mining area, Mogok.
The full day in the region was full in several senses of the word.
During the morning, I went for a walk through the countryside and a few villages with a local guide. As well as showing me the abandoned distillery that is now a chicken farm, a couple of eagles used for hunting and various natural beauty, my guide took me to chat to a few people who lived in the area.
They were all lovely and it was very interesting to talk with them - and they all me gifts: tea, roses, two eggs, a couple of songs (you will be amused to know I returned the favour by singing "Twinkle, Twinkle") and lunch.
I just had some Australian art cards and my sincere thanks (well, and "Twinkle, Twinkle"), but I did my best.
In the afternoon, my main guide took me to see some ruby mines. We were then joined for tea by a couple of local gem dealers.
They showed me some beautiful stones, including a wonderful sapphire and two star rubies (more on which below) and taught me some basic facts about gems.
The conversation about the star rubies went something like this:
GD: [handing me a stone] Here, have a look at this one.
Me: Wow, that's beautiful.
[I looked at it in detail, listened to explanation of its features]
Me: Out of curiosity, what would a stone like that be worth?
GD: [he already knew I was not in the market] It varies. Around $4,000.
Me: If only...
GD: Now look at this one [we exchanged stones]
Me: You know, I know this is smaller and it's probably worth less, but there's something about it - I like it more.
GD: [laughing uproariously] You're very smart!
He then explained it was actually worth significantly more.
We chatted further (and looked at more stones) and then my guide indicated it was time to leave.
The gem dealer then shook a couple of spinels he'd shown me earlier into his hand and wrapped them up. He gestured for me to hold out my hand and pressed the package into my palm. "From my country to you!"
I protested, he insisted.
I thanked him and gave him and his partner each one of my cards. "From my country to you," I said.
They actually seemed fairly satisfied with the exchange, once I'd also inscribed the cards at their request.
While the spinels have lasted the longest of all the gifts I received that day in terms of materiality, I'm not sure that the greatest generosity I met was not the gift of the eggs. And while I did not have another day quite so extreme in terms of actual gifts, many of the people I met in Myanmar exhibited similar generosity of spirit.
I still have misgivings about the ethics of visiting developing countries, but I'm very glad I went.
